- Always available
- Grown in a lab, in a close recirculating system with UV sterilization
- Disease Free
- These cultures are free of parasites such as hydrozoans, something that cannot be guaranteed from suppliers of wild caught mysids and plankton
- 20 days or older. These animals are raised for scientific environmental testing, but have become too old for that purpose. At 20+ days these animals are still juveniles, not adults.
- Great for finicky eaters such as wild-caught seahorses, great for reef tank inhabitants and other marine organisms that are hard to feed
*** Note *** Mysid shrimp are very difficult to culture because they are highly cannibalistic. Our mysids are sold as "feeds" and we are not able to provide support for culturing or propagating them.
|Receiving your Mysids|
- The mysid will be at 20 ppt (1.015 specific gravity) when you receive them. Allow a maximum change of 3 ppt per day.
- If the mysids have become cold during shipping allow them to warm up slowly. One technique is to put the un-opened bag of mysids into a tank with warmer water, allowing the bag to gradually warm up.
- Cold mysids might look dead due to oxygen super-saturation. Put all the cold mysids into the receiving tank and start aeration to bring down the oxygen levels.
- Salinity should be between 15 and 35 ppt, any lower then 15 ppt reproduction ceases. 18-25 ppt is the range I would recommend.
- pH should be maintained between 7.8 - 8.3.
- Alkalinity should be monitored so it does not fall below 80 mg/l.
- Temperature should be between 18-28 C (64 -82 F).
|Tank||For 1000 shrimp a tank of 80 gallons or more would be good, but most important is surface area since they live predominantly at the bottom. That's the problem with regular tanks is that they are usually deeper then they are wide. Nice tanks to use would tend to be shallow and wide, 3-4 inches deep. Substrate is up to the individual, I don't use any in the tanks because it makes cleaning and removing the animals harder. If you care to use any, a fine crushed coral works. If you go with bare bottom tanks, keep as much crushed coral in the filter for buffering reasons|
|Feeding||Mysids are highly carnivorous and feed on many types of zooplankton. Newly hatched Artemia and/or live rotifers. If feeding Artemia, hatch out .5 grams for a morning feeding and .5 grams for an evening feeding. If feeding rotifers we suggest about 400 rotifer per day for each shrimp.|
Mysid shrimp are very cannibalistic so if they are not fed every day they will consume each other.
|Life Span||Estimated 6-8 months, but being that you have a dense population the weak ones are going to be picked off.|
|Spawning||Estimated cycle of every 10-14 days if the environmental conditions are favorable. The embryos develop in a brood pouch and are released when the female molts. This is where the common name opossum shrimp comes from.|
|Eggs?||No - free swimming juveniles.|
|Aeration||Sponge filters work well. They also create more surface area.|
|Separating Adults from Babies||The easiest way to separate the young from adults is by using a 2000 micron sieve (2mm screen). The adult mysids will remain on the screen and the young will pass through. Fiberglass mosquito screen is 2mm and very inexpensive.|